Cover illustration for inspiration
A granny square grows outward from a small center, using groups of stitches separated by open spaces. Once you understand the corners, the structure becomes easy to recognize. Repeated squares can later be joined into blankets, cushions, and other projects.
This tutorial uses US crochet terms and a traditional three-double-crochet group. It gives one specific version with chain-two corners and chain-one gaps along the sides. Other granny-square patterns may use different chain counts; follow one set of instructions consistently.
Prepare your yarn and stitches
Use smooth yarn and a compatible crochet hook, plus scissors and a yarn needle. Work the first square in one color so you can focus on the structure. You should already be comfortable making a chain, slip stitch, and US double crochet.
To make a double crochet, yarn over, insert the hook into the indicated space, yarn over, and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through two loops, then yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops.
In the instructions below, ch means chain, dc means double crochet, and sl st means slip stitch. A group means three dc worked into the same space. US double crochet is called treble crochet in UK terminology; the Craft Yarn Council abbreviation list explains the terminology differences.
Make the center ring
Chain four. Slip stitch into the first chain to join it into a ring. Work the first round into the central hole, rather than into the individual chain stitches. Keep the starting tail long enough to weave in securely later.
Round one creates four corners
Chain three; this counts as the first dc. Work two dc into the ring to complete the first group.
Chain two, then make three dc into the ring. Repeat that instruction twice more. You now have four groups. Chain two and slip stitch into the top of the starting chain three to close the round.
Check your work: there should be four groups and four chain-two spaces. Those spaces become the corners. Counting them now helps prevent an uneven shape in later rounds.
Round two expands the square
Slip stitch across the next two dc and into the next chain-two corner space. Chain three and make two dc into this space, then chain two and make three more dc into the same space. You have completed the first corner.
Chain one. In the next corner space, work three dc, chain two, and three dc. Repeat this step for the remaining two corners. After the final corner, chain one and join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain three.
You should have eight groups, four chain-two corner spaces, and four chain-one side spaces.
Round three adds side groups
Slip stitch across the next two dc and into the next chain-two corner space. Begin the corner with chain three, two dc, chain two, and three dc in that space.
Chain one and work three dc into the next chain-one side space. Chain one and work a full corner of three dc, chain two, and three dc into the next corner space.
Continue around, placing one group in each side space and a full corner in each corner space, with chain one between neighboring groups outside the corners. After the last side group, chain one and join to the starting chain three. Round three has 12 groups and four corners.
Finish and check the shape
Fasten off, leaving a tail of about 15 cm. Weave in both ends securely. If needed, gently shape the square using a blocking method suitable for the yarn; follow its care label and avoid unapproved heat.
For additional rounds, keep the same structure: one group in each side space and two groups separated by chain two at every corner. Lay the work flat regularly. If it cups or ripples noticeably, check the group and chain counts before changing your hook.
Make several practice squares before planning a large project. Matching their dimensions and choosing a consistent joining method will make assembly much easier. The cover is an inspirational illustration, not a stitch chart or an exact sample of these instructions.